Septiembre 2020
Revista de Libros

Treme: Nueva Orleans después del Katrina

por Rafael Narbona

Ambientada en Nueva Orleans después del Katrina, el huracán que devastó la ciudad en el verano de 2005, causando graves daños materiales y humanos (cerca de dos mil víctimas), Treme es una serie televisiva creada por David Simon y Eric Overmyer y estrenada por HBO en 2010. La primera temporada narra las penalidades de una ciudad que lucha por preservar su identidad, combatiendo el desánimo con su tradición musical y gastronómica, donde confluyen las raíces africanas, latinas y francesas. Aunque Nueva Orleans perdió veinte mil habitantes después de la catástrofe, no olvida que es la cuna de Louis Armstrong, Wynton Marsalis y Tennessee Williams, y se resiste a perder sus rasgos diferenciales, que representan una sugestiva alternativa al estilo de vida anglosajón, insinuando que otra América es posible.

Alejada del puritanismo protestante, la filosofía de Nueva Orleans se refleja en la frase «Laissez les bons temps rouler» («Dejad que sigan los buenos tiempos»), que expresa el compromiso con el placer, la inmediatez y la irracionalidad. La lógica y el afán de progreso material no parecen compatibles con una ciudad que aún conserva los rituales vudús y que ha convertido las carrozas, máscaras y collares de Mardi Gras (Martes de Carnaval) en un desafío a los convencionalismos morales y sociales. Al igual que la gastronomía, la música desempeña un papel esencial en Nueva Orleans. El jazz, el rhythm and blues, la música cajún (de origen francés, con predominio del violín y el acordeón) y el zydeco (mezcla de cajún y blues) son mucho más que un mero entretenimiento. Son una expresión artística que incluye una interpretación de la existencia, con elementos trágicos y festivos. El silencio parece antinatural en una ciudad que ha introducido la música en todos los aspectos de su vida.

Todo cambió con el Katrina. A finales de agosto de 2005, los diques –insuficientes y precarios– cedieron, y Nueva Orleans sufrió una inundación colosal. Se ordenó la evacuación forzosa, pero eso no evitó que los barrios afroamericanos e hispanos sufrieran las peores consecuencias del desastre. Durante los primeros días, reinó el caos. La falta de alimentos y agua potable provocó una oleada de saqueos. La respuesta del gobierno de George Bush consistió en enviar a veinticuatro mil soldados y decretar la ley marcial. Aunque el Congreso aprobó una ayuda de diez mil millones de dólares, el dinero tardó en llegar y hasta 2009 no pudo hablarse de una verdadera recuperación.

Treme comenzó a rodarse en 2009, con una perspectiva crítica que pretendía recoger el sufrimiento de la población y la ineficacia e insensibilidad de los poderes públicos. Faubourg Tremé (en francés, Faubourg significa «suburbio») es el primer barrio de afroamericanos libres en Estados Unidos y el centro de la vida cultural, política y social de la comunidad negra estadounidense. Situado en la zona norte de la ciudad, el nombre Treme o Tremé –según se utilice la ortografía anglosajona o francesa– procede de Claude Tremé, un fabricante de sombreros que emigró desde Sauvigny (Francia) a Nueva Orleans en 1873. Tremé era el propietario original de estas tierras. Al cabo de un tiempo, las autoridades consintieron que los afroamericanos pudieran adquirir casas, convirtiéndose por primera vez en propietarios. David Simon (creador de la aclamada The Wire, así como de series tan notables como The Corner y Generation Kill) trabajó con Eric Overmyer para abordar la situación de Nueva Orleans cinco meses después del Katrina, relatando los esfuerzos de una docena de personajes para reconstruir sus vidas. Overmyer reside en la ciudad durante algunas temporadas y esa circunstancia le ha permitido impregnarse de la vida de sus calles, sus restaurantes y sus locales de música en directo. Sin embargo, la serie no se limita a esos escenarios, sino que también explora la corrupción política, las arbitrariedades del sistema judicial, la brutalidad de la policía y los problemas urbanísticos, con un espíritu crítico y de denuncia que recuerda la disección de Baltimore en The Wire. Esa actitud se plasma con especial fuerza en la escena en que un autobús de turistas recorre las zonas más damnificadas movido por una morbosa curiosidad, despertando la indignación de los vecinos.

La serie debutó con un episodio piloto de ochenta minutos dirigido por la cineasta polaca Agnieszka Holland, que había rodado tres episodios de The Wire en los que había demostrado su talento para imprimir al relato fluidez, consistencia, intensidad y dramatismo, conjugando recursos del lenguaje cinematográfico y documental. También se contó con George Pelecanos y David Mills, ambos guionistas de The Wire, y con una importante trayectoria como periodistas y escritores. David Mills, que había trabajado en E. R. (estrenada en España como Urgencias) y The Corner, murió repentinamente en Nueva York a los cuarenta y ocho años, doce días antes del estreno de la serie, un hecho que se reflejó en una dedicatoria final, homenajeando su labor. El extraordinario trabajo de los guionistas de The Wire y Treme pone de manifiesto que las series televisivas se han transformado en un género esencial para escrutar e interpretar los acontecimientos de nuestro tiempo. Nadie ha tomado el pulso a la calle con una mirada tan cercana e incisiva como la de David Simon o la del malogrado Mills, sin menoscabar a Allan E. Ball (guionista de Six Feet Under, True Blood y American Beauty), que ha preferido centrar su mirada en las clases medias y altas de las grandes concentraciones urbanas.

Treme se adentra en Nueva Orleans mediante unos personajes cuidadosamente elaborados. Antoine Batiste (Wendell Pierce) es un trombonista que ha perdido su casa, su coche y sus preciados vinilos. Sobrevive mediante actuaciones puntuales con pequeñas bandas locales. Es un buen músico, pero con limitaciones que le impiden soñar con adquirir la fama y el reconocimiento reservado a los gigantes del trombón, como Jay Jay Johnson, Tommy Dorsey o Curtis Fuller. Batiste es un mujeriego empedernido, un padre irresponsable y un jugador de póquer sin suerte. A pesar de sus flaquezas, se desprenderá sin dudarlo de un trombón nuevo para regalárselo a su maestro, viejo, enfermo y desmoralizado. Es un bello gesto que revela su enorme humanidad. Capaz de regatear unos pocos dólares con un taxista para abaratar el coste de una carrera, acepta que un japonés amante del jazz le compre un trombón, después de perder el suyo durante un incidente con la policía, pero cuando muere su maestro no consiente que su familia le devuelva el instrumento, señalando que debe conservarlo su nieto para aprender a tocarlo y proseguir la tradición. Wendell Pierce realiza una gran interpretación, logrando que su personaje funcione como la perfecta combinación de picaresca, amor a la música, humildad y ternura.

LaDonna Batiste-Williams (Khandi Alexander) es la exmujer de Antoine y la madre de dos de sus hijos. Casada en segundas nupcias con un dentista, vive entre Nueva Orleans, donde atiende un bar de su propiedad, y Baton Rouge, su residencia familiar. Su hermano Daymo (David Maurice) ha desaparecido durante el huracán y LaDonna no escatimará medios para encontrarlo. Detenido por una infracción de tráfico y un requerimiento judicial infundado, Daymo desaparece en la telaraña institucional. Un recluso intercambia su pulsera identificativa con él, contribuyendo a que se pierda su rastro. Lejos de colaborar, las autoridades municipales y policiales actúan con negligencia e insensibilidad, ocultando datos y declinando cualquier responsabilidad. Al igual que en The Wire, la corrupción es la norma y la transparencia y la honestidad, lo ocasional e improbable. LaDonna no se resignará a perder la pista de su hermano y luchará contra el sistema con el mismo valor con que se enfrenta a los clientes borrachos o violentos. No es una activista comprometida con un cambio político y social, sino una mujer que lucha por su familia, sin renunciar jamás a su independencia.

Por el contrario, Antoinette «Toni» Bernette (Melissa Leo) es una abogada que pone todo su corazón en la defensa de los derechos civiles, asistiendo a las víctimas del sistema, casi siempre músicos o personas sin recursos maltratadas por la policía y las instituciones. Su altruismo no está teñido de ingenuidad. No es una revolucionaria, sino una reformista que estudia minuciosamente cada caso antes de acudir a juicio. No le interesa el dinero y ni siquiera se plantea hacer carrera profesional fuera de Nueva Orleans. Su marido, Creighton Bernette (John Goodman), es profesor de Literatura Inglesa en la Universidad Tulane y ha publicado algunos libros de creación. No consigue terminar una novela sobre el huracán San Felipe, que mató a más de cuatro mil personas en 1928. Atascado desde hace seis años, descubre por su hija la existencia de YouTube y comienza a realizar pequeñas grabaciones, criticando la actuación del gobierno de George Bush, que ha mostrado una hiriente indiferencia hacia Nueva Orleans, un bastión demócrata y multirracial. Creighton es un hombretón culto y sarcástico, que emplea un lenguaje explícito en sus intervenciones. Sin pretenderlo, adquiere una inesperada popularidad. Sus editores le apremian para que finalice su novela inacabada, incorporando a la trama el contenido de sus denuncias en la Red. Sin embargo, su bloqueo está asociado a un sentimiento de derrota profesional y vital que se ha agravado con el Katrina, empujándolo hacia un callejón sin salida. El personaje de Creighton está inspirado en la figura del bloguero Ashley Morris, un hombre excesivo e irónico que ha aprovechado las nuevas tecnologías para airear las miserias de la sociedad norteamericana.

Sofia (India Ennenga) es la hija quinceañera de Creighton y «Toni». Estudia piano y se disfraza de espermatozoide con sus padres durante Mardi Gras. La pantomima es una forma de reivindicar una inyección de energía vital para Nueva Orleans. Davis McAlary (Steve Zahn) es un extravagante locutor radiofónico y un músico ocasional que enseña piano a Sofia. Davis es la cara más caótica de Nueva Orleans, con su incurable molicie y su incorregible inmadurez. Su relación sentimental con Janette Desautel (Kim Dickens), una emprendedora chef que lucha por sacar adelante su restaurante, nunca se convertirá en algo serio y estable. Davis es un niño que no quiere crecer, incapaz de hacer algo de provecho y con imán para los líos. Su breve carrera como concejal produce una mezcla de irrisión e incredulidad. Su propuesta más innovadora consiste en legalizar la marihuana como medida preventiva contra los baches de las calles. No tiene mucha lógica, pero Davis es así: entrañable y disparatado.

Albert «Big Chief» Lambreaux (Clarke Peters) es uno de los más respetados líderes de los Indios de Mardi Gras. No es una jefatura simbólica, sino una distinción que exige estar a la altura de las circunstancias. Por eso no dudará en desafiar a la ley para exigir que se realoje a las familias arrojadas a la intemperie por el Katrina. Hay más de diez mil casas vacías que permanecen cerradas por la incomprensible actitud del Gobierno. Los Indios de Mardi Gras son una de las principales atracciones de Treme. Se trata de afroamericanos que se disfrazan durante el carnaval con trajes minuciosamente cosidos a mano y adornados con plumas, lentejuelas, bisutería y otros materiales. Se agrupan en «tribus» o «bandas» y desfilan por las calles de su barrio, sin mezclarse con el carnaval oficial. Un gran jefe preside cada tribu, que incluye figuras como el muchacho espía (ocupado de atisbar a tribus rivales), el muchacho bandera, encargado de portar el estandarte del clan, y el hombre salvaje o curandero.

Se desconocen los orígenes de los Indios de Mardi Gras, pero sabemos que los afroamericanos –libres o esclavos– empezaron a utilizar plumas en Nueva Orleans hacia 1780. Es posible que imitaran a las tribus nativas de América del Norte, pero tampoco hay que descartar que se inspiraran en las tradiciones de África occidental, donde se combinan máscaras y plumas. Algunos historiadores sostienen que los centenares de afroamericanos que se alistaron al Noveno Regimiento de Caballería de los Estados Unidos (a quienes los nativos de las llanuras llamaban «soldados búfalo»), copiaron el atuendo de las tribus hostigadas por el ejército. Otros investigadores afirman que la visita del «Buffalo Wild West Show» durante el invierno de 1884-1885, con nativos auténticos, marcó el inicio de los Indios de Mardi Gras por afán de emulación. Según la tradición oral de los Criollos del Lejano Oeste, una de las tribus de Mardi Gras, el fundador de este peculiar fenómeno fue Becate Batiste, con sangre africana, francesa y amerindia. Hasta la Segunda Guerra Mundial, los desfiles incluían enfrentamientos violentos entre las tribus, pero después del baño de sangre en los campos de Europa y el Pacífico la contienda se limitó a los trajes y los bailes.

Treme recoge la tradición de los Indios de fabricar trajes nuevos cada año, desechando los anteriores. A veces con un peso de cuarenta y cinco kilos, su coste –especialmente en el caso de los «jefes»– se cuenta por miles de dólares. Las bandas de indios se dividen de acuerdo con su procedencia. Los de la parte baja de Nueva Orleans se inspiran en diseños africanos abstractos. Los de la parte alta se basan en la iconografía popular de los amerindios. Ambos bailan y desfilan a pie tanto en Mardi Gras como el día de San José (19 de marzo) y el domingo siguiente, conocido como «Super Sunday». Eventualmente, algunas tribus participan en el Festival de Jazz. Los trajes no son menos importantes que la música. Ensayan todo el año para interpretar una música de raíces africanas, con tambores, panderetas y otros instrumentos de percusión. Son cantos antifonales de pregunta y respuesta, con letras en las que se alternan palabras inglesas, francesas, criollas y términos misteriosos como «tu-way-pa-ka-way».

Albert «Big Chief», magníficamente interpretado por Clarke Peters (el brillante y sagaz Lester Freamon de The Wire), es la encarnación del espíritu de resistencia de una Nueva Orleans que reivindica sus tradiciones con orgullo y no se amilana ante la adversidad. El estado ruinoso de su barrio no le parece motivo suficiente para no celebrar sus desfiles y no le acobardan las amenazas de la policía. Su hijo Delmond (Rob Brown) es un reconocido trompetista de jazz que vive en Nueva York y que no comparte el entusiasmo de su padre por el carnaval. Basado en el innovador y creativo saxofonista Donald Harrison Jr., Delmond Lambreaux cederá poco a poco y participará en la elaboración de los trajes, implicándose en la preparación del desfile. Su itinerario espiritual representa el punto de convergencia entre modernidad y tradición. De hecho, la música de Donald Harrison Jr. es una síntesis del viejo espíritu de Nueva Orleans y las tendencias más arriesgadas de la música actual.

No es menos interesante la pareja de músicos ambulantes compuesta por la violinista Annie Talarico (Lucia Micarelli) y su novio Sonny (Michiel Huisman). Annie posee una formación sólida obtenida en el Conservatorio y no deja de crecer como intérprete, mientras que Sonny se estanca y se enreda con las drogas, experimentando unos incontrolables celos profesionales, que a veces le hacen comportarse de forma desconsiderada y violenta. Los policías les acosan, obligándoles a interrumpir sus conciertos callejeros, pese al entusiasmo de los transeúntes, que reconocen con fervorosos aplausos el talento de Annie. En la vida real, Lucia Micarelli (Nueva York, 1983) es una excelente violinista con dos discos en el mercado, Music from a Farther Room (2004) e Interlude (2006), en los que conviven diferentes estilos: pop, jazz, rock progresivo. Por último, hay que mencionar al teniente Terry Colson (David Morse), un oficial de policía que se muestra comprensivo y razonable, intentando resolver los conflictos por medio del diálogo y no de la fuerza. Mantiene una relación amistosa y cordial con la abogada «Toni» Bernette, pese a que sus demandas contra los excesos de sus agentes le complican la vida.

Treme refleja ampliamente la tradición musical norteamericana. Se puede escuchar como telón de fondo a Louis Armstrong, Sonny Rollins, Coleman Hawkins, Little Richard, Emmylou Harris, Randy Newman, Steve Earle, Lucinda Williams y fragmentos de suites y partitas de Bach. «Treme», el tema que abre cada capítulo, es una creación del gran John Boutté (Nueva Orleans, 1958), cantante de jazz, rhythm and blues y góspel. Boutté aparece en varios episodios, interpretándose a sí mismo y cantando en los clubes con pequeñas orquestas o en plena calle. Es memorable su actuación a capela a petición de su amigo Davis, que intenta retener a su novia en Nueva Orleans.

El genial trompetista Kermit Ruffins (Nueva Orleans, 1964) no se limita a introducir piezas de su repertorio, sino que forma parte de la trama, encarnando el estilo de vida de la ciudad. Su única meta es hacer música, fumar hachís y cocinar barbacoas en su jardín. Ruffins no concibe la vida sin música y una buena mesa. Aprendió de su abuela que la gastronomía es un arte. El chef y el músico son los maestros de una existencia basada en el placer de los sentidos. En la vida real, Kermit estudió música clásica, pero enseguida se decantó por el jazz y el blues. El éxito no le ha impedido tocar en la calle o en centenares de funerales. Sus conciertos en salas y locales son verdaderos espectáculos, donde la música alterna con la cocina y los eventos personales. Kermit hace barbacoas en mitad de sus actuaciones y celebra su segundo matrimonio en escena, con una ceremonia completamente atípica. Al igual que en la serie, le apasiona el hachís y la cerveza, y ha afirmado que está enamorado de Ámsterdam por su ambiente tolerante y desinhibido.

Steve Earle repite con David Simon, después de interpretar al personaje de Walon en The Wire. Esta vez no es un toxicómano rehabilitado, sino un músico callejero que toca con su hijo (Justin Townes Earle) y que estimula a Annie para fijarse objetivos más ambiciosos. Activista comprometido con las causas más significativas de la izquierda norteamericana, Earle convirtió su álbum Jerusalem (2002) en una feroz crítica contra el gobierno de George Bush. Contiene un tema dedicado a John Walker, el joven norteamericano que combatió en el bando de los talibanes en Afganistán. Apresado por el ejército de Estados Unidos, fue enviado a prisión. Sus compatriotas siguieron su historia con verdadero estupor. Elvis Costello sólo aparece fugazmente en Treme, escuchando jazz en un garito y grabando en estudio con el célebre pianista Allen Toussaint piezas de su disco The River Reverse. La lista de músicos que desfilan por Treme es muy extensa y contiene bandas o solistas de la talla de Dr. John, Sammie «Big Sam» Williams, Troy «Trombone Shorty» Andrews o Cassandra Wilson.

HBO ha producido series de gran calidad: The Wire, The Sopranos, Six Feet Under, Pacific, Band of Brothers, Boardwalk Empire o Deadwood. Los directivos de HBO han pedido a sus guionistas que trabajen como novelistas, profundizando en las emociones de los personajes y evitando los finales moralizantes. El profesor de literatura Creighton Bernette (el ya mencionado John Goodman) expresa esta filosofía en una de sus clases: «La vida no se parece a la literatura. Casi nada tiene un fin claro o un desenlace. Las cosas suceden y nada más, sin que se aprecie ninguna directriz o un propósito racional que explique el encadenamiento de los hechos». Ni siquiera la muerte es definitiva, señala Creighton, pues «morir sólo es una forma de transitar hacia otro estado». El profesor Bernette es un triste ejemplo del sentimiento de derrota de algunos habitantes de Nueva Orleans, que ya no encuentran fuerzas para continuar, pues entienden que algo ha cambiado irremediablemente. Sin embargo, el pesimismo no es la nota dominante de Treme. Tal vez nada refleje mejor el espíritu de la serie que el funeral de Daymo, el hermano desaparecido de LaDonna. La banda de música acompaña al difunto hasta el cementerio con himnos religiosos y baladas melancólicas, pero al regreso la tristeza se convierte en un festival de jazz y rhythm and blues, transitando por las calles ante las miradas cómplices de vecinos y transeúntes. Nueva Orleans no es una simple ciudad, sino una forma de vivir, donde no hay espacio para el desaliento o el nihilismo. El precio de la vida es la muerte, pero no hay que lamentarse. En ese trayecto, siempre estará la música, celebrando nuestro paso por el mundo.

19/07/2019

 
COMENTARIOS

George 25/07/19 10:02
Vi Treme hace ya años...Alguien me recomendó la teleserie y un personaje de la misma me recordó a quien me la recomendó. Lo que no pudo ser, y su presencia. Todos los personajes parecen invadidos y movidos por la nostalgia de un futuro que, sin duda, debiera ser mejor que el momento post inundación. Al tiempo, el temor a dejar escapar su esencia.Hay una atmósfera cálida de humedad y música, de derrota y potencialidad de lo mismo que tú desearía si estuvieras allí, en esas calles, con esa libertad y, al tiempo, movido por un destino que nunca deja de ser ajeno a tí.

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Yo he visto la serie y ahora voy a empezar el libro.

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Manuel María 08/09/19 02:29
Qué magnífica serie.
Una delicia, un ejemplo, una inspiración.
Creo que no tardaré en volver a verla.

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